the ride

No other ride gets such revered treatment. So spectacular is it that the world’s greatest competition is held here, but only when the sea is good and ready. Unlike other events where surfers deal with whatever the ocean drags in that day, the competitors, photogs, journalists, and spectators wait on shore until the real waves show up to do battle. Sometimes it takes days, sometimes weeks.

Paddling out isn’t all that tough. But dropping in is bad with a capital B - A - D. You gotta get in early and make the quick, wicked turn left to avoid getting tattooed by the lava shard ocean floor.

If you’re fortunate enough to make it into this famous blue cavern, surfers report that the world can sometimes go into serene, slow motion… a ten second ride so intense… even time holds its breath.